Stowe Vermont
Skiers love it, but there's plenty to do when the powder melts
By Marion Flanagan - June 1, 2009
World-class downhill slopes and chillingly steep “front four” mountaintop runs have made Stowe, Vt., a favorite destination for skiers. On a jaunt in summer, however, I discovered that this historic New England village has far more to offer than skiing. I also realized how dramatically the Green State differs from anywhere else in the country.
Vermont is a 9,600-square-mile swath of mostly independent-minded folks. Indeed, there have been movements for the state to secede from the U.S. and create the Second Vermont Republic.
Vermont’s contrarian legacy, dating back 200 years, is part of what makes the state–and Stowe in particular–so interesting. Transplants from all over the country have rooted here to escape the commotion of cities and the strictures of more traditional ways of life.
That means you’ll find a former financier from New Jersey working at the Morrisville-Stowe State Airport (seven miles from downtown), garnering an eighth of his former salary but endowed with a Walden-like perspective on the merits of a modest lifestyle. Or you’ll meet a waitress from Brooklyn who traded rows of brownstones for cedar trees.
Yet such people are only part of Stowe’s intrigue. Unlike the winters, when thermometers can visit minus territory, summers are ideal here–dry and with temperatures in the mid 70s. Moreover, there’s so much to do in Stowe’s off-season that I was hard-pressed to complete my itinerary, even after five action-packed days.
How much could there be to see in a laid-back, mountain town where “Moose Crossing” signs decorate the landscape and the most prominent landmark is the Community Church’s tall steeple? Plenty, it turns out. There are natural water holes to plunge into, rivers to kayak down and miles of trails to explore, even by dog cart. Descendents of the von Trapps of Sound of Music fame are here, and some of them run the enchanting Trapp Family Lodge (see “Where to Stay”). Downtown Stowe is bustling with shops, galleries and historic buildings, while neighboring Waterbury hosts Ben and Jerry’s Ice Cream Factory (tours available, www.benjerry.com), the Vermont Ski Museum (www.vermontskimuseum.org, 802-253-9911), Lake Champlain Chocolates (www.lakechamplainchocolates.com, 802-241-4150) and the Cabot Creamery Annex (www.cabotcheese.com, 802-244-6334).
What’s more, the 30 or so restaurants in Stowe–many on par with some of the best in the country–are part of the Vermont Fresh Network. That means everything is organically grown or locally produced. The lamb chop I ordered at Michael’s on the Hill came from a local farm, as did the vegetables and cheese. Indeed, dining is one of the top reasons to visit Stowe. Even the local pizza is great.
You’d think with such an arrestingly beautiful landscape and so much to offer, Stowe would be clogged with tourists. But in summer, it’s quiet. The roads that cut through cornfields and bucolic valleys are often empty, as are the trails. The only time we saw a crowd was in the Trapp Lodge’s concert meadow at the Vermont Mozart Festival (
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